YOLO SOLO

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO WALKS, HIKING, AND HUTS ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND NEW ZEALAND

One of the reasons I love Great Barrier Island is the large variety of walking and hiking tracks. Each and every one of them offers something special but for many, the astonishing views and variety of terrain are a common theme. From remarkable beaches and lush green bush to towering summits you get it all on this one magnificent island.

There are so many trails to choose from and something to suit all ages and fitness levels. The majority of the walks are located on conservation land which occupies a large percentage of the island. This land is managed by the Department of Conservation and Auckland City Council.

As an avid hiker, that has been visiting Great Barrier Island since 2011, I have had a chance to walk just about every track on the island. For a number of years, I have worked as a teacher with school groups doing long programs at Hillary Outdoors. Since 2019 I have worked as a hiking guide for Walking Legends. Both jobs have allowed me to see hiking on Great Barrier Island through the eyes and experiences of others, young and old.

FLORA & FAUNA ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND

Pateke - Great Barrier Island
Pāteke – Brown Teal Duck

Great Barrier Island is home to some very special flora and fauna. The absence of possums and ermines means some of New Zealand’s endangered species thrive in this island environment. A lot of work in the area of conservation is done to protect the special species of Great Barrier Island.

New Zealand’s largest and rarest lizard the Chevron Skink lives on the island with 12 other lizard species. A number of endangered native birds also call Great Barrier Island home, including the Kākā, NZ Dotterel, Black Petrel, Kākāriki and Pāteke (Brown Teal Duck).

Native plants are known to thrive, including endemic species of hebe, orchids, prostrate kanuka and the Great Barrier Island tree daisy. Much of the island is regenerating forest with Kanuka and Manuka covering a large proportion of it. Pohutakawa scatters the coastline and our forest giant the Kauri is making a comeback after the island was logged for its timber in the early 20th century.

KAURI DIEBACK DISEASE

Kauri Dieback - Great Barrier Island
Kauri Dieback wash station

Kauri dieback was first detected in the 1970s, on Great Barrier Island. However, it wasn’t until 2008 that it was declared an unwanted organism. By the following year, the NZ Government started funding a long term management programme to help protect our forest giants. Kauri dieback is a tiny fungus-like pathogen called Phytophthora taxon Agathis (PTA) which only affects kauri. It is carried through the soil and most easily spread by humans and animals.

A lot of effort is taken to ensure we protect what kauri we have. You will see evidence of this in the kauri grove near Kaiaraara Hut as you walk out to Bush’s Beach. Whether you arrive at a wharf or the airport you will find wash stations where you can clean and spray your footwear. Many of the walking tracks will have wash stations at the entrance and exit. If you come across one do make sure you used them when you start and finish a walk. I can not emphasise enough how important this is, please make every effort to help protect these special taonga (treasures) of Aotearoa New Zealand.


SOUTHERN END OF GREAT BARRIER ISLAND – TRYPHENA TO MEDLANDS

WHALERS LOOKOUT & RUAHINE LOOKOUT

1-3 hours return – Easy to Hard

Whalers Lookout - Great Barrier Island

Both of these walks start at the same place. To get to the start of the track, drive to the end of Cape Barrier Road. You will come to a sign indicating ‘4wd only past this point’. Park here unless you do have a 4wd vehicle. The last car park is not much further down the hill so it will only save you a few minutes of extra walking.

As you head down the road on foot keep an eye out for a small sign and track on the left that will take you down to Johnson’s Bay. Before you get to the shoreline of Johnson’s Bay the track turns sharp left then right. Keep an eye out for the sign to Whalers Lookout which will take you up the hill through towering kanuka trees.

At the top of this hill, you will come to an intersection. Turning left will lead you to the Ruahine Lookout, which will take you about 2 hours return. Turning right will take you out to Whalers Lookout, just a few more minutes from this point.

Heading to Whaler’s Lookout, you will come across an information board which will give you a little history on this location. It was used to spot whales during the whaling period of the late 1950s and early 1960s on Great Barrier Island. The view from Whalers lookout is a stunning one and makes for a great spot to enjoy a picnic or watch the sunrise. It is the closest point to the Coromandel which you can see across the Coville Channel.

If you decide to head up to the Ruahine Lookout be prepared for a steep rugged climb. I have no idea why the signpost says ‘Easy Tramping’. It is not easy! In the steepest places, there are chains to help and if you usually use hiking poles I would highly recommend taking them. It would not be ideal doing this track if it is wet and muddy as it will be extremely slippery. I have only done this track once on a warm dry morning. Coming down was not as bad as I thought it would be after the exhausting effort to get up. This is not a track I would find myself doing often but the view makes it worth doing it at least once.

ISLAND BAY TRACK

1 hour return – Easy

Island Bay - Great Barrier Island
Island Bay

The track to Island Bay is probably my least favourite of the southern walks but an easy one if you don’t have much time. Heading along Cape Barrier Road, it is clearly signposted near a colourful bus stop on the right. There should be plenty of room for parking.

It is an easy downhill stroll where you will find a shoreline covered in round rocks. A nice spot for a swim, picnic and maybe even some snorkelling if it is a hot day.

DOLPHIN BAY & ROSS BAY TRACKS

1.5 – 2 hours return – Medium

Dolphin Bay - Great Barrier Island
Dolphin Bay

The start point of this track is also located on Cape Barrier Road. Both walks start on the same track before coming to a fork about half an hour in. Dolphin Bay veers off to the left and Ross Bay to the right and is the longer of the two. Both tracks are fantastic but note that Ross Bay does not lead to the water’s edge. The Ross Bay track takes is easy walking for about the first 15 minutes with stunning views of Tryphena and as far as Hauturu (Little Barrier). The last 20 minutes starts the downhill section which gets very steep in the last section. In the end, you come to a small clearing high above the shoreline. This is a fabulous spot to sit and enjoy the view before you climb back up the hill.

The descent down into Dolphin Bay is steep in places but there are plenty of stairs to make it easier. You will pass through lush green groves of nikau palms which are a delight. Although this is a climb in both directions I really do enjoy this walk for the gorgeous lush bush it takes you through. As you emerge into the bay you will find a rocky shoreline in a nice sheltered cove. If you like exploring the rocks then you will love it here. Another great spot for a swim and if you are lucky some dolphins just may turn up.

KOWHAI VALLEY TRACK & STATION ROCK

1.5 – 3 hours on way – Medium

Station Rock - Great Barrier Island
View from Station Rock Track looking towards Tryphena

The first time I ventured here was to do the Station Rock Track and I thought what a gem! I have since completed both tracks together and find them each to be fantastic walks in their own right. Both tracks take you through the Windy Hill – Rosalie Bay Catchment Trust sanctuary. The 770-acre sanctuary was established by local landowners to protect local flora and fauna in this part of Great Barrier Island.

Each track is estimated to take about 80 minutes which in my experience is an accurate estimate. Both tracks can be started or finished on Rosalie Bay Road, about ten a minute drive from Mulberry Grove. Take your time and be prepared to stop suddenly in case you meet a car coming towards you. The road is narrow and windy. You will come to a clearing with a sign for the start of the track on your left. There is plenty of room to park.

The track starts with a short downhill vehicle track before coming to a signpost that directs you to the right. A little further on is where the track splits to Station Rock and Kowhai Valley. The Station Rock Track follows a ridgeline offering spectacular views of both sides of the island. Station Rock Lookout is located near the other end of the track. The Kowhai Valley Track starts with a pretty steep descent before leveling out as the track makes its way to the Medlands Campsite. To do this track in reverse would be quite a climb!

If you want to get up to Station Rock for the lookout or do both tracks together then enter from Medlands Road. You will find a sign at the top of Medlands Hill which is easier to spot if you are coming from Tryphena. There is parking on both sides of the road. It is about 15 minutes of walking uphill to the lookout. If you have the time it is also worth carrying on for another 15 minutes for another great view and to experience a little more of this wonderful track on Great Barrier Island.


CENTRAL GREAT BARRIER ISLAND – WHANGAPARAPARA TO OKIWI

AOTEA TRACK

2-3 days – Medium to Hard

Aotea Track

This is a popular multi-day hike and currently the only one in the Auckland region. It can be done in a variety of ways with overnight stops at Mt Heale and Kaiaraara Huts. My recommendation would be to start at Windy Canyon and make your way to the summit before heading down to Kaiaraara Hut. This will take you about 5-6 hours.

The next day you will have time to do the walk out to Bush’s Beach which is an easy one hour return from the hut. Along the boardwalk, you will see a Kauri Grove with dead, dying and healthy Kauri. If you really want a full day hiking then you may consider doing the loop via Bush’s Beach, Kiwiriki, W Line Track, and Forest Road before heading up the South Fork Track to Mt Heale Hut.

Make sure you give yourself time to drop your pack and do the walk up to Hirakimata Summit for the sunset. From Mt Heale Hut the summit is a one-hour return trip. From November to May you may be lucky enough to spot a Black Petrel, a sighting is very rare! During the summer months, you will hear them at night from the Mt Heale Hut.

Great Barrier Island
South Fork Track with Mt Heale in the distance

If you didn’t get up to the summit of Hirakimata for the sunset then you might like to get up early and go for the sunrise. Once you are ready to leave Mt Heale Hut, head down the Peach Tree Track to the Kaitoke Hot Springs for a well-deserved soak. The walk downhill includes more stairs but it is a really nice walk and the soak at the hot springs will make it worth it. From the Mt Heale Hut to the Kaitoke Hot Springs will take you about two hours, not including time spent at the hot springs. From the hot springs, it is an easy half an hour walk out to Whangaparapara Road.

If you want a slightly longer walk and a cold swim at the end you can continue on the Tramline Track all the way to Whangaparapara. There is a great little swimming hole at Kauri Falls, just half an hour from the end of the track. Otherwise, head straight to Whangaparapara Wharf for a dip in the ocean.

Doing the Aotea Track this way does mean you miss Forest Road but in my experience, you are not missing much. The Department of Conservation (DOC) recommends including Forest Road and they do have more information on the Aotea Track.

MT HEALE HUT

Mt Heale Hut
View from the balcony of Mt Heale Hut

The quickest way to get to Mt Heale Hut would be via Windy Canyon and Palmers track taking approximately 3 hours. However, it can be accessed from a number of tracks including Kaiaraara Track, South Fork Track, and Peach Tree Track. What makes this hut so special is the spectacular views looking over Port Fitzroy and across the Hauraki Gulf. On a clear evening, you will be treated to the gorgeous night sky, remember Great Barrier Island is one of few Dark Sky Sanctuaries in the world!

This serviced hut has two rooms that sleep 10 people in each. There is gas provided for cooking, cold water (boil before drinking) and two long drop toilets. It really is worth a night here. My recommendation is coming in via Windy Canyon or South Fork Track and exiting via the Peach Tree Track and Kaitoke Hot Springs. You can enjoy a nice hot soak before making your way out to Whangaparapara Road. To stay you must book Mt Heale Hut through the Department of Conservation (DOC).

TE AHUMATA – THE WHITE CLIFFS

1-2 hours one way – Easy to Medium

Great Barrier Island
Te Ahumata – White Cliffs

Te Ahumata is an easy one hour walk between Blind Bay Road and Whangaparapara Road. If you are feeling a little energetic then take the detour up to the top of the cliffs for spectacular views in all directions. This will add another hour to the walk. It is not recommended if it is raining or the ground is wet as the track going up (and down) gets very slippery.

There is a lot of mining history in this area with the belief that there is still a few million dollars worth of gold in the hills. You will find information about the mining history on the walk and at the Orville Stamping Battery that you pass along Whangaparapara Road.

At the Blind Bay Road end of the track do make sure you look out for the giant kauri tree on the side of the road. It is hard to miss! And if you drive a little further towards Okupu Bay you will find Iona Mine. An easy five minute walk down to an old mining tunnel where you will find a little more history and some cave weta. Well worth checking out!

KAITOKE HOT SPRINGS

1 hour return – Easy

Kaitoke Hot Springs - Great Barrier Island
Kaitoke Hot Springs

Kaitoke Hot Springs is a ‘must-do’ when visiting Great Barrier Island. These therapeutic mineral hot springs are a great way to relax after a day of hiking. There are several pools up the stream so plenty of room for everyone. I recommend that you do go to an upstream pool, they are much better than the main pool which you see when you first arrive at the springs.

Getting there is easy if you start from the car park on Whangaparapara Road. It is a leisurely 30-40 minute walk along a well-formed track suitable for prams and wheelchairs. You will find a long drop toilet at the beginning of the track and also at the hot springs.

OLD MILL TRACK

2 hours return – Medium

Mill Track - Great Barrier Island
Historic Steam Engine at the end of the Old Mill Track, Whangaparapara

This track is one that goes unnoticed unless you happen to visit the Green Campsite in Whangaparapara. First, you need to walk into the Green Campsite which takes about 15 minutes from Whangaparapara Road following the edge of the mangroves. You will see the sign on the right just as you cross the bridge into the campsite.

If the tide is out it is worth walking around the coastline but this should only be an option an hour either side of low tide. It can be muddy in places and take care on slippery rocks and around the sharp oysters. The Old Mill Track itself takes you up and down two hills with a few viewpoints that capture the Whangaparapara harbour. At the end of the track, you will find remnants of the Kauri Timber Company sawmill including an old steam engine. A little further around the coastline is the whaling station which is now private property. This location was used for processing the whales caught near Great Barrier Island during the late 1950s to early 1960s.

WITHEY’S TRACK

1.5 hours one way – Medium

Great Barrier Island
Wairahi Stream

Withey’s track is a really nice walk linking the lower Tramline Track to Forest Road. It can be included if you are heading to Kaiaraara Hut from Whangaparapara. Otherwise, you can use this track to do a complete loop from Whangaparapara which would be a good four-hour hike. Withey’s Track is named after Bill Withey who was a team hauler operator for the Kauri Timber Company.

Getting to the start of the track is near the start of the Tramline Track so not too far from the road entrance. Once on Withey’s Track, it is a gradual climb up a wide track and then a slightly steeper descent down to the Wairahi Stream. From there the track zig-zags across the stream several times tempting you to stop and enjoy this beautiful location. There are no bridges on the streams so do take care if the streams are high or there has been recent rain.

TRAMLINE TRACK

5 hours one way – Hard to Easy

Great Barrier Island
Tramline Track North

The Tramline Track is 8kms long, traversing a large section of Aotea at its widest point. The track was originally used by the Kauri Timber Company during the 1920s and 1930s to transport kauri logs. It is during this time that most of the kauri trees were removed from the forests of Great Barrier Island. It is not common for people to tackle this whole track in its entirety. But because it connects a number of other tracks many use it to get from other track to another or to points of interest along the way.

If you are going to walk the whole track then it would be best to start at the northern end on Aotea Road. This end of the track is challenging with very steep descents and climbs. I stress VERY steep! I would recommend not doing the track if it is wet unless you want to spend a lot of time on your butt as it will be extremely slippery. However, this end of the track offers a great adventure with some stunning spots to enjoy along the way. About half an hour into the track is Awana Falls, a stunning swimming spot. This is the best waterfall you will find on the island without going off the beaten track. The first steep section is just before the falls and you will get a great view of the steep climb on the other side of the valley. If it is a hot day you definitely want to make time to stop here for a swim. From Awana Falls it is a steep climb up and over the hill with a couple more stream crossing near the bottom on the other side. Eventually you will reach the old Peach Tree campsite and turn off for the Peach Tree track. This is approximately half way and should take you about two and a half hours without stops.

From here it is an about thirty minutes of easy walking to the Kaitoke Hot Springs turn off. The hot springs is a fifteen minute detour over the hill. However, if you carry on along the tramline you will eventually come to Forest Road. This section of the track is a little undulating but mostly uphill. Once at Forest Road it is a short downhill walk before you reach Kauri Falls which is signposted. This is a nice little side trip to a small waterfall and swimming hole. From Kauri Falls it is an easy and very pleasant half hour walk to Whangaparapara.

FOREST ROAD

4 hours one way – Medium

Great Barrier Island
Forest Road

Forest Road is not the most exciting track I have walked on Great Barrier Island but it is a popular one that connects Whangaparapara with Port Fitzroy. It can be walked as part of the Aotea Track and follows a vehicle track that is also suitable for mountain bikes. Highlights on this track include the Maungapiko Lookout and the giant Kauri. Both are short side trips worth taking.

KIWIRIKI TRACK

4 hours one way – Hard

Great Barrier Island
Two Kauri standing either side of the Kiwiriki Track

This track is a fantastic alternative to walking Forest Road. From the Maungapiko Lookout, the track starts with an easy downhill and up through the thick of young kauri. The Department of Conservation has done a lot of work on this section of the track putting in stairs and raising the track to protect the kauri trees from kauri dieback.

Next is a steep descent into a valley where you will meet the stream that leads out to Kiwiriki Bay. This is the half waypoint. There is a short 5-10 minute walk out to Kiwiriki Beach which is a great stop for a swim on a hot day.

From Kiwiriki Beach there is a steep climb over a hill that takes you down to another stream before the last climb that will eventually connect you to the W-Line Track. From here it is an easy walk with a few drops into creeks that require a little care. The last part of the Kiwiriki Track connects to the Bush’s Beach track which is a well-graded track and half an hour from the Kaiaraara Hut.

PEACH TREE TRACK

1.5 hours one way – Medium

Peach Tree Track - Great Barrier Island
View from Peach Tree Track

The Peach Tree Track connects Mt Heale Hut with the Kaitoke Hotsprings via the Tramline Track. I have done this track several times but only ever in one direction and that is down! From Mt Heale Hut to the Tramline Track takes about an hour and a half and then it is about another half an hour to the hot springs. This track is not recommended if it is wet, as it will be very slippery.

For those doing an overnight at Mt Heale Hut, a popular option is to start at Windy Canyon and finish with the Kaitoke Hot Springs via the Peach Tree Track. From Mt Heale you will be treated to fantastic views along the way as you descend into the low lying forest and eventually into the Kaitoke wetlands.

SOUTH FORK TRACK

2.5 hours one way – Medium

Great Barrier Island
South Fork Track swing bridge

This is my favourite track to Mt Heale Hut and begins on Forest Road near Kaiaraara Hut. The track starts with lots of stairs down to the Kaiaraara Stream which you follow for a while. This section of the track is one of the reasons it one of my favourite. From the stream, there is a good climb, mostly stairs, and they the track weaves in and out of the hills with some fantastic views. There is a swing bridge closer to the end of the track which is also a highlight for me but not so popular with those who don’t like heights. If this is you then you may want to choose an alternative route to Mt Heale Hut.

Another reason I like this route is that when I get to Mt Heale Hut I can leave my pack and do a return trip to the summit of Hirakimatā (Mt Hobson) with a light load. A great idea if you want to catch the sunset at the summit. Just don’t forget a torch so you can find your way back down. Also, be sure to keep an eye out for Black Petrel from November through to May. They will often come out around dusk.

KAIARAARA TRACK

3.5 hours one way – Medium to Hard

Kaiaraara Track - Great Barrier Island
Nikau Palm Grove on the Kaiaraara Track

This is a track I have only ever walked in sections, never from start to finish and always down, not up. As far as I am aware it is also the track with the most stairs. So if you are not a fan of stairs (like me) you might not enjoy this one so much. But the walk itself takes you through some really beautiful bush and is a direct link between the Kaiaraara Hut and the summit of Hirakimata (Mt Hobson).

The highlight of this track use to be the kauri dams, once used to flush kauri logs down the Kaiaraara Stream and into Port Fitzroy. However, in 2014 a big storm and heavy rain washed the dams away. It was quite devastating to lose these historic sites. There is still an information plaque with photos and the history of these dams to view at their original location. This is not too far from the Coopers Castle Track turn off where you will also find a long drop toilet.

WINDY CANYON & PALMERS TRACK TO HIRAKIMATA (MOUNT HOBSON) SUMMIT

2 hours one way – Medium

Palmers Track - Great Barrier Island
Palmers Track between Windy Canyon and Hirakimata Summit

This would be the most popular walk to the summit of Hirakimatā (Mt Hobson) and many do it as a return walk. Windy Canyon is right at the start of the track and worth checking out for its dramatic rock formations and views. You won’t need more than 30 minutes for the return trip to the Windy Canyon Lookout.

The walk along Palmers Track to the summit of Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) takes you along an exposed ridgeline that leads into the bush for the last part of the climb. There are plenty of stairs which make the track easier to manoeuvre. However, there are still sections that require care as the can be a little steep and slippery, especially when it is wet.

The last section of the track is bush and all stairs that lead to the summit. The stairs protect the burrows of the Black Petrel who nest here through the summer months. This special sea bird travels from South America and only nests on Great Barrier Island and Little Barrier Island. To see one is something special! I have been fortunate to see a few Black Petrel over my time on the island.

HARATAONGA COASTAL WALKWAY

3.5 hours one way – Medium

Harataonga Coastal Walkway - Great Barrier Island
Lookout over Whangapoua Beach and Estuary from Harataonga Coastal Walkway

My number one hiking track on Great Barrier Island! Coastal walks are my favourite and this track is no exception. Connecting the Harataonga Campsite and Okiwi you can expect nothing but magnificent views along the way. Other than a hill at the Harataonga end, the entire walk is relatively flat as it weaves in and out of the valleys.

Because it is a one-way track you will need to organise a pickup or drop off at one end unless you are keen on walking it in both directions. It takes me about 3.5 hours to walk it one way. Another option can be to leave a vehicle at the Okiwi end and hitchhike to the top of Harataonga Road and start your walk there. This will add another 2.5kms to the walk but it is all downhill to the campsite. If you are limited for time then I recommend walking in from the Okiwi end to the first lookout which is you can see in the photo above. There is a bench seat here which you can use to take in the amazing view of Whangapoua estuary and beach.

OKIWI PARK

15 minutes loop – Easy

Okiwi Park
Okiwi Park

This little park is a real delight and the best place to stop for bird watching. The children at Te Kura o Okiwi (Okiwi School) do a fantastic job looking after the park and caring for the flora and fauna that live there. You will find a car park on Mabey Road just at the end of the school field where you can enter the park. There is a toilet here as well.

A loop walk will take you through the park in either direction and you can expect to spot native birds such as Kākā, Kererū, Kākāriki and Tui. If you are lucky you may even spot an eel in the creek. There are two, free to use, gas barbeques and a number of picnic tables scattered throughout the park. This has to be one of my favourite places on Great Barrier Island!


NORTHERN END OF GREAT BARRIER ISLAND – PORT FITZROY TO WHANGAPOUA BEACH

COOPERS CASTLE TRACK

3 hours one way – Hard

Coopers Castle - Great Barrier Island
View from Coopers Castle Rock

The first time I did this track was out of curiosity, the second time was because I had forgotten why I didn’t like it when I did it the first time! So not my favourite track on the island due to the challenging nature of the trail, especially when it is wet and muddy. In places, it is very narrow, steep and includes a lot of uneven ground. If you like this sort of challenge then you will love this track!

However, I must say it is worth it for the view from Coopers Castle Rock! I could sit there for hours enjoying the peace and quiet. If you want to avoid the more challenging part of the track to get to the lookout then you can access it from the Kaiaraara Track which is a really nice walk but it does include a steep climb before the lookout.

My recommendation, if you really want to do it, then do it in the summer months when the track is dry. Start at the top of Port Fitzroy Hill and go all the way through to the Kaiaraara Track. From there you can head up to the summit of Hirakimata and Mt Heale Hut. Alternatively, you can head down the track to Kaiaraara Hut which I have already mentioned, is a really lovely walk.

OLD LADY TRACK

45 minutes one way – Medium

Old Lady Track - Great Barrier Island
Entrance to Glenfern Sanctuary and the Old Lady Track

This track links Port Fitzroy to the top of Port Fitzroy Hill and the start of the Coopers Castle Track. The start of the track can be found at the entrance into Glenfern Regional Parkland. It is a steady climb with a great little detour up to Lookout Rock. The detour is steep but worth it for the fantastic views over Port Fitzroy. Although this is a one-way track it is a good walk to do as a return trip from Port Fitzroy.

GLENFERN REGIONAL PARKLAND & SANCTUARY

1 hour loop – Easy

Glenfern - Great Barrier Island
View from Sunset Rock at Glenfern Sanctuary

Glenfern Sanctuary is a very special place indeed! Over the years I have spent a lot of time here with school groups planting trees and helping out with anything needed at the time. The sanctuary is located on Kotuku Peninsular with a predator-proof fence running from Port Fitzroy to Karaka Bay. This helps to keep out the island’s main predators, rats, and feral cats. Entrance into the sanctuary is via Port Fitzroy, just up from the store.

The history of this sanctuary began in the early 1990s with the purchase of the land and Fitzroy House. Tony and Mal Bouzaid beautifully restored the historic homestead which can be booked for accommodation. Tony’s passion for conservation and restoration of bird song had him create the sanctuary for all to enjoy. In 2016 the sanctuary was purchased from the family and is now owned by the Auckland City Council but run by the Glenfern Sanctuary Trust.

You can do a self-guided (free) or guided walk (cost) through the Regional Park which includes stunning views from Sunset Rock and the opportunity to walk out into the canopy of a 600-year-old kauri tree. I don’t know anywhere else in Aotearoa New Zealand where you can do that! Also, be sure to stop by the Pāteke (rare brown teal duck) pond to see if the resident ducks are home to say hello.

KAIARAARA HUT

Kaiaraara Hut
Kaiaraara Hut

The quickest way to access Kaiaraara Hut is an easy 20-minute walk from the end of Kaiaraara Bay Road in Port Fitzroy. The hut can also be accessed from the Kaiaraara Track and Forest Road. From the hut is a really nice walk out to Bush’s Beach via a Kauri Grove where you will see evidence of Kauri Dieback Disease.

This is a serviced hut that includes a wood stove, gas cooking, cold water (boil before drinking) and two long drop toilets. There is always a good supply of wood for the wood stove which can be used to keep the hut warm and cosy in the winter. There are two rooms with 14 beds in each. You must book Kaiaraara Hut through the Department of Conservation (DOC).

BUSH’S BEACH TRACK & KAURI GROVE

1 hour return – Easy

Bush's Beach
Bush’s Beach

What makes this track special is not only Bush’s Beach but the Kauri Grove you go through to get there. This is one of the locations on Great Barrier Island, and easiest to access, that the kauri dieback disease is evident. Within the grove (along the boardwalk) you will see dead, dying and healthy kauri trees together. You get a real sense of the impact this devastating disease is having on our precious forest giants.

Getting out to Bush’s beach is an easy 30-minute walk from Kaiaraara Hut with a short steep descent just before you get to the beach. I like it better here when the tide is in and it is a great little spot for a picnic. There is a picnic table and a long drop toilet located at Bush’s Beach.

LINE W TRACK

l hour one way – Medium

Having only done this track once, what I remember was the gorgeous moss. This track joins Kiwiriki and Forest Road and is a good option for a loop walk from Kaiaraara Hut if you included Bush’s Beach, Kiwiriki and Forest Road tracks. I estimate the whole loop would take about 2-3 hours and well worth it if you like a bit of variety.

BRIDLE TRACK & WARREN’S CREEK TRACK

1 hour one way – Easy

Bridle Track - Great Barrier Island
View of Port Fitzroy from the Bridle Track

If you find yourself in Port Fitzroy looking for a really lovely walk to do then this would be a great choice! A relatively easy walk, with a few stairs, this track takes you to one of the few accessible waterfalls on the island. If there hasn’t been much rain then the waterfall won’t be very impressive. However, on a nice hot day, the swimming holes are great for a dip.

There are several starting points for doing these two tracks combined and my recommendation is starting at the Port Fitzroy Store. You will find the entrance to Bridle Track just next to the library (small cabin) across the road from the store. Follow this track until it meets the Warren Track and continue on to the waterfall. From the waterfall, you follow the creek until it joins the path again just a little further down. It will take you about 15 minutes to reach the road. Turn right and follow the road for a short distance until you see an entrance back onto the Bridle Track. From here you will retrace your steps back to your start point at Port Fitzroy Store.

BURILL ROUTE TO TATAWEKA SUMMIT

5 hours return – Hard

Paparahi Tataweka
Start of the Burril Route Track

This track through the very northern end of Great Barrier Island is currently on my ‘to do’ list. It is not a commonly visited track and gets very little maintenance. Considered an ‘expert route’ by the Department of Conservation (DOC), it should only be attempted by fit and able hikers. The track starts from Mabey Road and climbs steeply through Te Paparahi forest then along the ridge to Tataweka, the second highest peak (526m) on Great Barrier Island.

Having talked to a number of locals who have done it they say the return trip is closer to 5 hours than the 8-9 hours recommended by DOC. What I am also told is that for anyone who loves tramping it is worth the walk. The bush is different again from what you find on the rest of Great Barrier Island. Apparently, there is no good view from the summit but that you will get some great views along the way.

The route itself follows the original track used by copper miners and later I am told by farmers taking cattle through for grazing when much of this land was part of Okiwi Station. This now regenerating forest, known as Te Paparahi, is significant to local Māori as it holds taonga (treasures) and spiritual values of people, flora, fauna, land, and water. A number of special species can be found here. In recent years there has been the consideration to returning Kōkako to the area after the last two were moved in 1994 to Hauturu (Little Barrier Island) for their protection. You can read more about Te Paparahi…

BEACH WALK TO SS WAIRARAPA GRAVESITE

45 minutes return – Easy

Whangapoua Beach - Great Barrier Island
Whangapoua Beach

Many people never make it to Whangapoua Beach as it is in the far north of the island and getting there is a little off the beaten track. But in my view it has to be one of, if not, the best beach on the island! With more than a two-kilometer stretch of white sand, it is not uncommon to arrive at this beach and discover you have it all to yourself. Definitely worth packing a picnic, sunscreen, your togs, and a towel so you can enjoy this beautiful stretch of coastline.

To get there you need to turn off in Okiwi, onto Mabey Road. Follow this gravel road all the way to the end where you find yourself in a paddock sheltered by pine trees. There is a long drop toilet there. It is a short walk through the pines on to the beach where you then turn left to make your way to the SS Wairarapa Gravesite. At the gravesite, you will find information on the history of the SS Wairarapa Shipwreck. A tragic incident that claimed 121 lives. Keep an eye out for Tōrea (Oyster Catchers), NZ Dotterel and Pāteke who call this beach home. For that reason, no dogs are allowed.


HELPFUL ADVICE FOR VISITING AOTEA GREAT BARRIER ISLAND

WHERE TO STAY – There are plenty of accommodation options on Great Barrier Island with the majority of places situated in the Medlands and Tryphena areas. Air Bnb is also popular and the Department of Conservation has six campsites around the island which can be booked online as can the two huts.

HOW TO GET AROUND – There are a variety of transport options on the island. Most people visiting Great Barrier Island will rent a car as there are a number of car rental companies to choose from. You can also organise shuttles for pickups and drops offs which can be useful for hikers getting to and from tracks. For the more adventurous, electric scooters are a popular option for getting around and hitchhiking is also common on Great Barrier Island and very safe.

LEAVE NO TRACE – If you have not heard of the 7 Principles of Leave No Trace then I recommend you become familiar with them. They are very applicable to how you should conduct yourself on Great Barrier Island. This island has a very unique environment with a population of fewer than 1000 people who treasure it. Remember it is their home that you are privileged to enjoy so please respect that.

WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR RUBBISH – Waste management is a challenge on Great Barrier Island with the landfill due to close in the next few years. It is important to make sure you are clear on what to do with your waste if you are visiting Great Barrier Island. There are no public rubbish bins so you must dispose of your own waste appropriately or take it home with you… For more information please read this…

Other articles that may interest you:
Getting to Great Barrier Island,
The Best Things to do on Great Barrier Island,
The Aotea Track – Discover Auckland’s Only Multi-Day Hike on Great Barrier Island

Karllie Clifton - Yolo Solo

ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

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